Sa Pa

8 January 2006

After the peace and calm of Ha Long Bay, returning to Hanoi was a shock.  Trying to get a nap in was quite difficult because of all the honking and traffic outside our window.  I stopped by to visit Chi Huyen's shop which happens to be right next to Co Phi's hotel.  Then it was back to the hotel for a farewell dinner for Anh Hiep.  At 9PM we were taken to the train station to go to Sa Pa to visit the ethnic minority villages.  We heard it was going to be even colder in the mountains, so this time we brought our coats.  The train ride was very comfortable....as we slept in our bunks, we were afraid we would oversleep and miss our stop at 7AM....fortunately, we didn't.  We then took an hour long shuttle up the mountain where we were treated to some amazing views.  Unfortunately they were erased by the fog and clouds when we got to the top.  We were treated to a delicious bowl of Pho (beef noodle soup) for breakfast and then we were off on our tour of the H'mong village. 
 
Our guide was a cute little 16-year-old named Zu.  We thought she couldn't be any more than 12, though.  She could speak H'mong, Vietnamese and English.  She said that she learned Vietnamese in school, but it was much harder to learn than the other two.  English she picked up from tourists.  We hiked down a muddy mountainside path, passing rice paddies, pigs, ducks, goats, chickens, dogs, and waterbuffalo on the way.  When we got to the bottom, it was very slippery and almost everyone took a tumble in the mud.  It was freezing out, with a cold mist and our shoes and jeans got very muddy.  Our trek lasted about 5 hours and it was amazing to see the ingenuity and lifestyle of the villagers and the landscape was breathtaking.  Everywhere we walked, though, we were hounded by little girls to "maybe you buy from me".  They all had handmade bracelets, blankets and clothing to sell. 
 
When we returned from the tour, we checked into our hotel room, which we mistakenly thought would be heated.  Instead we were given two electric blankets to keep warm.  Needless to say, we didn't get of bed once we got in.  Showering in the morning almost didn't happen, either.  Just imagine going to a ski lodge, but there's no heat and no place to build a fire....and we paid to do all of this!!!  This morning we browsed the Sa Pa Market and hiked down to Cat Cat Village.  The trek was much less treacherous than yesterday's, but there were lots of steps. 
 
We definitely recommend coming here during the summer and check to make sure the weather will be clear so you can enjoy the views.  We can't wait to get on the train so we can fly to the, hopefully warm, beaches of Nha Trang.  
Sa Pa
Pics from visit to Sa Pa and surrounding areas in Northern Mountains.
Mountain terraces where rice is grown.  These go nearly all the way up mountain sides. Mountain terraces where rice is grown.  These go nearly all the way up mountain sides.
One of the pigs that ran around free.  They belong to one of the villages. This is the path we took to the village.
Phuoc at the first valley we stopped.  You can see the rice paddy terraces in the background.
Some goats we saw along the way.
Phuoc and our guide, Zu, on the mountain path to her and other villages.
This is an indigo plant.  The H'Mong boil them down to make dye for the clothes they make from hemp.  Some of them smoke it according to Zu.
Four-leaf clovers that are everywhere here.  Seems three-leafs are the anomaly. One of the villages surrounded by rice paddies.
Mountain-side path we walked down. Phuoc, Shawn, and our guide Zu at the bridge just before we stopped for lunch.
Some ducks swimming in a rice paddy.
Device to grind up rice.  The other end had a large spoon that a stream filled.  When the spoon was full, it raised the rice pounding end, then dumped the water and the other end crushed the rice.
Small potato patch.
A rooster.  These weren't just in the villages either.  We heard them near our hotel also.  At 5am, they started their cockadoodle doin'--for over an hour.  Terribly loud, too.
One of the villages. One of the villages.
Green tea tree. View from our balcony.  Five minutes later there was even more fog.  Couldn't see the ground.
Water buffalo.
Village and surrounding fields. Village and surrounding fields.
Village and surrounding fields. Village and surrounding fields.
Village and surrounding fields.
Shawn with terraced rice paddy in background.
Shawn and Zu on the mountain path to the villages.
Views from our hike.
Local H'Mong girls.
Views from our hike.
Views from our hike.
Phuoc with girls from the villages in the baackgrond.  They would literally swarm you to try and sell bracelets, clothing and other items they had made.
Another local girl.  Don't think she was H'Mong.
Phuoc with some cats that hung out under the wood stove in our hotel cafe. The market in Sa Pa.
The market in Sa Pa.
The market in Sa Pa.
Phuoc breaking out his vocals at a karoke bar in Sa Pa waiting on our tour to start the second day.
Waterfall at the end of the second day hike.